Can You Paint Powder Coated Steel?

I’ve lost count of how many times people asked me, “Hey, can’t we just paint over this powder coated steel?” They usually ask it with that casual tone, like it’s the same thing as painting your living room wall. I always chuckle not to be rude, but because I know what’s coming. After ten-plus years at Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, I’ve seen the messes when someone tries it without thinking through the details.

The thing is, powder coating isn’t your regular brush-on or spray-can paint. With a powder coat, we blast the parts clean, spray fine electrostatic powder, and then bake them at around 180–200 °C. The powder flows, melts, and cures into a hard, almost glassy skin. Strong, tough, corrosion resistant. That’s why so many clients love it for CNC turning parts, brackets, cabinets, and outdoor gear.

Now here’s the problem: that same toughness is exactly what makes repainting tricky. Normal paint needs pores, roughness, or “tooth” on the surface to grab onto. Powder coating is slick, sealed, and stubborn. You slap wet paint over it without prep, and within a few weeks it starts peeling like sunburned skin.

I still remember one batch of powder coated housings we shipped out years back. Customers scratched some during installation and thought, “No problem, we’ll just touch them up.” They brushed on regular paint, no sanding, no primer. Two months later, angry email with photos of peeling corners. Guess who had to rework those parts? Us. And rework is never fun; it eats time, margins, and honestly, morale too.

So yes, powder coated steel can be repainted, but it’s tricky, labor-heavy, and frankly a bit annoying when engineers or buyers assume it’s just a quick fix.

Preparing Powder Coated Surfaces for Painting

If there’s one lesson I’ve hammered into apprentices over the years, it’s this: surface preparation is 80% of the job. The actual painting? That’s just the last 20%. Without proper prep, paint on powder coat will fail, not “might fail,” not “sometimes fails” it will fail.

Mechanical Abrasion

The most straightforward way to give new paint a fighting chance is mechanical abrasion. Sanding, blasting, even just scrubbing with a Scotch-Brite pad the goal is to roughen that glossy powder skin so liquid paint has something to grip. I’ve seen guys try to get away with a quick scuff, and then wonder why the paint peels at the edges. If it doesn’t look dull and scratched-up, it’s not ready. In tougher cases, fine-grit sandblasting works wonders, though you have to be careful not to warp thinner sheet metal.

Chemical Etching and Adhesion Promoters

Sometimes mechanical work isn’t enough, especially on parts with complex geometry corners, channels, or tight bends. That’s where chemical etching or adhesion promoters come in. Wipe-on acid etches or liquid primers that bite into the surface can create the micro-level roughness normal paint needs. It’s chemistry doing the sanding for you. In the factory, we use specialized adhesion promoters for parts bound for harsh environments. It’s an extra step, but one that saves angry phone calls later.

Cleaning and Degreasing The Forgotten Step

Here’s the mistake I see engineers and even seasoned technicians forget: cleaning. Powder coated parts may look clean, but fingerprints, cutting oil residue, or even airborne dust can sabotage adhesion. I’ve seen jobs ruined because someone skipped the degreasing bath or used the wrong solvent, leaving behind a film that acted like Teflon. Always clean, rinse, and dry thoroughly before painting.

In the end, you can sand, etch, or prime all you want but if you don’t prep properly, the answer to “can you paint powder coated steel?” is basically no. It won’t stick, and it won’t last. Prep is where the battle is won.

Sanding and Mechanical Roughening: Lessons Learned

If you’ve never sanded powder coating before, let me save you some pain: it’s not like sanding wood or even regular paint. Powder coat is a baked-on plastic shell. Tough, smooth, and stubborn. Getting paint to stick means chewing through that slick surface until it looks dull and scratched-up.

Practical Tips from the Shop Floor

On flat panels, orbital sanders with 120–180 grit work well. Coarser grits (80 or below) can gouge the metal if you’re not careful, while finer grits (220+) don’t always bite enough into the coating. For edges, we use hand sanding blocks or Scotch-Brite pads. They’re slower, but they get into corners without leaving swirl marks. One word of warning: dust. Powder coat dust is finer than wood dust and it clogs filters fast. If you don’t have good extraction, your whole sanding line will be sneezing by lunch.

Case Example: The Recolor Job

I’ll never forget one recolor project where a client changed their mind last minute on a batch of powder coated electrical housings. “Just repaint them,” they said, like it was nothing. We put the sanding team on it full weekend overtime. Hours of grinding, sweating, and breathing through clogged respirators. By the time we were done, the shop smelled like hot plastic, everyone was cranky, and the parts cost twice what they would have if the client had just picked the right color in the first place.

Why Small CNC Turning Parts Are a Nightmare

And don’t get me started on small CNC turning parts. Sanding a flat sheet is one thing. Sanding a tiny powder coated bushing or bracket with grooves and threads? Pure torture. The geometry means you can’t get a machine sander on it, so it’s all hand work. Fingertips raw, sandpaper torn to shreds, and half the time you still miss a shiny spot where paint will fail later. Whenever a client asks for repainting on small parts, we warn them: prep will cost more than they expect, simply because of the labor.

That’s the reality: sanding works, but it’s slow, messy, and unforgiving. Skip it, and your new paint peels. Do it properly, and you burn time and money.

Priming and Adhesion Testing for Reliable Results

If sanding is the grunt work, priming is the insurance policy. Without the right primer, even the best prep job won’t guarantee long-term adhesion. Over the years, I’ve learned that the right combination of primer and testing saves more headaches than any fancy spray booth ever could.

Types of Primers That Work

For powder coated steel, two standouts consistently prove themselves: epoxy primers and adhesion promoters. Epoxy primers create a strong chemical bond and seal off the surface, giving your topcoat something to grip for years instead of months. Adhesion promoters are lighter almost like a “glue layer” between slick powder coat and wet paint. We use them a lot on parts with tight tolerances where epoxy buildup might be too thick. Skipping primer altogether? That’s just asking for trouble.

Adhesion Testing Don’t Skip It

Once the primer’s down, you can’t just trust your eyes. You need data. The simplest and most common checks are the cross-hatch test and the tape test. Cross-hatch involves cutting a grid into the coating with a sharp blade, applying adhesive tape, and then ripping it off. If squares of paint come off with the tape, you’ve got a bonding problem. It’s not glamorous, but it’s a lot cheaper than redoing a client’s order six months later.

And here’s a number worth remembering: adhesion failure accounts for about 40% of coating defects according to industry data (ASTM D3359 testing is the standard, and Coatings World has published similar findings). Forty percent! That’s nearly half of all coating problems and most of them are preventable with proper priming and testing.

The Frustration of Skipped Tests

What really gets under my skin is how often people skip adhesion testing. “We don’t have time,” they say, or “It looks fine.” Then three months later the phone rings: paint peeling, clients angry, money wasted. I’ve had to stand in front of teams and explain why a thousand-dollar order turned into a five-thousand-dollar rework all because someone thought a five-minute tape test wasn’t worth it. It’s maddening.

So if you want reliable results, don’t gamble. Prime properly. Test properly. Otherwise, you’re just painting over a ticking time bomb.

Choosing Paints That Stick to Powder Coating

Not all paints are created equal, and nowhere is that more obvious than when you’re trying to coat over powder. Pick the wrong paint, and you’re wasting labor, materials, and reputation. Pick the right one, and you’ve got a finish that can last almost as long as the original powder coat.

Which Paints Work

From my experience, epoxy paints are the most dependable. They bite hard, resist chemicals, and give you that thick, industrial-grade layer clients expect for outdoor or heavy-duty parts. Right behind them are polyurethane paints that are tough, flexible, and resistant to UV. They’re especially useful for outdoor housings and equipment where sunlight would yellow or crack lesser paints. Both options come with higher price tags, but if you’re painting over a powder coat, you’re already in for extra prep. Skimping on paint at this stage is just a false economy.

Which Paints Fail

On the flip side, I’ve seen cheap spray-can enamels and acrylics fail spectacularly. They might look fine for the first week, but once moisture or temperature swings hit, the paint lifts like old wallpaper. One client insisted on using a low-cost acrylic on coated brackets three months later, the brackets looked like they’d been left in acid rain. We had to strip and redo the entire batch. Lesson learned: don’t cut corners.

Special Coatings for Specific Needs

Sometimes it’s not just about color; it’s about performance. We’ve worked with fireproof coatings for HVAC housings, where safety codes demanded extra protection. Other times, clients requested anti-graffiti coatings for public infrastructure projects, easy-clean surfaces that shrug off marker pens and spray paint. These specialized topcoats can be applied over properly prepped powder coats, but only if you respect the rules of adhesion.

Example From the Shop Floor

At Baoxuan Precision Manufacturing, we once handled a telecom housings project where the client needed a color change midstream. The housings were already powder coated in a stock grey, but the buyer insisted on a corporate blue. After a week of sanding, priming, and testing, we resprayed with a two-part polyurethane system. The result held up in the field even under UV exposure and coastal humidity. The job nearly broke the sanding crew’s patience, but in the end, the coating performed exactly as promised.

Can You Paint CNC Turning Parts After Powder Coating?

Now, this is where things get interesting and tricky. CNC turning parts are small, precise, and often made to tight tolerances. Once they’ve been powder coated, you’re dealing with a surface that’s smooth, hard, and slightly thicker than bare metal. Slap paint on top without thinking, and suddenly those tolerances, fits, and threads aren’t so perfect anymore.

Tolerances and Fits Matter

Even a thin layer of paint 50 to 100 microns can make a thread too tight or a bearing seat too snug. At Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, we’ve had small flanges that fit perfectly pre-powder coats, then were sent back to be painted by a client. When assembly started, nothing aligned. Bearings didn’t slide in, bolts wouldn’t torque correctly, and suddenly what seemed like a simple recolor turned into a nightmare.

Case Example: Flange Fiasco

I remember one project where a client requested a color change on about 200 powder coated flanges. We went ahead, sanded lightly, primed, and painted. Everything looked great visually. But when the parts hit the assembly line, about 15% of them didn’t fit. The engineers had to rework each part by hand filing threads, lightly sanding bearing surfaces. The whole team ended up laughing through gritted teeth because it was both frustrating and absurd: all because someone thought “a little paint won’t hurt.”

Lessons Learned

So yes, you can paint CNC turning parts after powder coating but only if you carefully account for dimensional changes. Sometimes it’s better to leave them powder coated and handle scratches or color mismatches with touch-ups instead of a full repaint.

Remember, “cnc turning parts” aren’t forgiving like flat panels. A tiny misstep in paint thickness, sanding, or primer application can throw off the entire assembly. I say this not to scare you, but because after a decade in the shop, I’ve seen enough regrets to know it’s worth the caution.

So next time someone asks, “Can we just paint these CNC turning parts?” pause, measure, and maybe laugh a little at the chaos it might unleash.

Pros and Cons of Painting Over Powder Coat

When clients ask if they can paint powder coated parts, I usually sigh first and then whip out the “truth table.” There’s no magic solution; each method has trade-offs. Let’s break it down in a way that actually helps you plan, budget, and avoid ugly surprises.

Notes From the Shop Floor

• Direct paint can sometimes work for decorative panels, but I wouldn’t trust it on CNC turning parts threads and fits fail fast.
  
• Sanding plus paint is better, but expect dust everywhere and worker fatigue. The sanding crew always grumbles when a client decides on last-minute color changes.
  
• Primers are lifesavers for adhesion, especially epoxy or specialized adhesion promoters, but skipping curing time is a common mistake.
  
• Stripping and recoating is overkill for many projects, but sometimes unavoidable when clients demand full recolor on critical CNC turning parts.
  

In short, there’s no perfect shortcut. Each choice impacts cost, labor, adhesion, and durability, and the wrong one can turn a simple repaint into a multi-week headache.

Industry Standards and Real Data That Matter

If there’s one thing I’ve learned after more than a decade at Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, it’s that data doesn’t lie. You can eyeball a painted panel all day, but without standards and measurable tests, you’re just guessing.

Salt Spray Performance: Powder Coat vs Paint-Over

One of the first questions engineers ask is, “How long will my painted-over powder coat last outdoors?” Well, ASTM B117 salt spray tests give us a clear picture. Standard powder coating typically holds up for 1,000–2,000 hours in a neutral salt spray before noticeable corrosion occurs. Paint applied over powder coating, even with perfect prep and primer, tends to last only 300–600 hours under the same conditions. That’s a big drop, and it’s why we stress prep and primer so heavily on parts bound for coastal or industrial environments.

Market Growth: Powder Coating vs Liquid Paint

Powder coating isn’t just technically superior in many cases the market shows it. According to Grand View Research, 2023, the global powder coating market is projected to reach $14.8 billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 6.3%. Growth is driven by durability demands, environmental regulations (powder coating has near-zero VOCs), and the rising adoption in automotive, electronics, and telecom sectors. If you’re repainting powder coated CNC turning parts, you’re swimming against a market trend favoring the original durable finish.

Authority Flex: Baoxuan Standards

At Baoxuan Precision Manufacturing, we don’t just talk. Every batch follows ASTM D3359 for adhesion, ISO 9001 quality control checks, and internal inspection routines that catch adhesion and coverage issues before parts leave the factory. It’s why clients trust us with critical CNC turning parts whether telecom housings, brackets, or flanges. Our standards aren’t marketing fluff; they’re the same ones that save customers costly rework when powder coated surfaces need repainting or touch-ups.

So, the takeaway is simple: data and standards matter. You can attempt to paint over powder coating, but the numbers and industry benchmarks clearly favor careful preparation, proper primers, and selecting the right paint not skipping steps.

User Needs: Why People Even Want to Paint Powder Coated Steel

I’ll admit, sometimes I scratch my head at why people want to repaint powder coated steel. After ten years at Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, I’ve seen every reason under the sun and some that make you wonder how they thought it would work.

Marketing Color Changes

The most common reason is simple: marketing. Companies love their brand colors, and sometimes the powder coated grey or black we shipped just won’t cut it. Repainting gives them the exact Pantone blue or red they want. I get it looks matter, especially on telecom housings or public-facing equipment. But here’s the thing: changing colors isn’t as simple as a spray can and a weekend. There’s prep, sanding, primer, and testing involved, all of which eat labor and cost.

Touch-Ups

Then there’s touch-ups. During shipping or assembly, minor scratches happen and clients naturally want them fixed. Small-scale touch-ups are usually manageable, but even these require careful sanding and priming if you want them to last. Otherwise, the repaired spots peel faster than the surrounding paint, creating more work than you started with.

Special Coatings

Sometimes it’s performance, not aesthetics. Fireproof coatings, anti-graffiti surfaces, or chemical-resistant layers may need to be applied over an existing powder coat. In these cases, repainting isn’t optional, it’s a necessity. But even here, the rules are strict: skip prep or pick the wrong paint, and your specialized coating will fail.

On-Site Contractor Needs

Field contractors often request repainting for quick fixes or color matching on installations. It seems convenient until you realize the intricacies: tight CNC turning parts, threaded holes, and nested assemblies don’t make on-site repainting easy. One poorly planned job can take hours or days to fix.

Procurement Reality Check

Here’s my quiet complaint: procurement teams rarely account for labor and risk in their calculations. They see a quick repaint as “low-cost,” but when you factor in prep, primer, testing, and potential rework, the actual cost is often double or triple. I’ve had more than one internal debate over a “cheap repaint” order that ended up costing the client and the shop more than a fresh powder coat.

At the end of the day, there are valid reasons to paint powder coated steel marketing, touch-ups, specialized coatings, and on-site needs. But ignoring the prep, labor, and technical constraints is a recipe for frustration.

Case Examples from the Shop Floor

Sometimes, talking theory only gets you so far. The real truth about painting over powder coated steel hits hardest when you see it on the shop floor. Over the years at Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, a few jobs stick in my mind not because they were glamorous, but because they taught hard lessons.

Outdoor Frames Recolor

A client requested a color change on a batch of outdoor aluminum frames. They were originally powder coated gray, but the marketing team decided green would “pop better.” We went through sanding, priming, and painting carefully, following all our usual steps. Fast forward two years: half the frames on the installation site were peeling at edges and corners. Turns out, UV exposure and rainwater runoff had tested the adhesion far more aggressively than our lab simulations suggested. The takeaway? Outdoor conditions matter just as much as surface prep.

Small-Batch CNC Turning Parts Repaint Request

Another memorable case involved a small-batch repaint of CNC turning parts for a telecom project. The parts were tiny flanges and brackets, powder coated and threaded for assembly. The client requested a corporate color match mid-production. We did our usual prep sanding, adhesion promoter, primer, and polyurethane topcoat. Sounds good, right? Well, assembly day revealed several fit issues. Threads were binding, some bolt holes slightly off, and we had to spend hours hand-adjusting pieces. Lesson learned: repainting CNC turning parts requires precision thinking paint adds thickness that can’t be ignored.

What We Learned

From these experiences, a few shop-floor truths emerged:

• Always account for the environment outdoors, UV, and humidity can undo even the best prep.
  
• Small CNC parts are a precision nightmare measure, test, and, if possible, avoid full repaint.
  
• Primer and adhesion testing are non-negotiable, skipping them guarantees headaches later.
  
• Communication with clients is crucial to educate them on what repainting actually entails.
  

These examples aren’t just stories; they’re proof that painting over powder coating is doable, but fraught with pitfalls. Skip prep, ignore tolerances, or underestimate environmental factors, and you’ll pay for it in time, cost, and frustration.

Alternatives to Painting Over Powder Coat

Sometimes, the best way to deal with color changes or coating requirements isn’t repainting at all. Over my years at Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, I’ve seen clients save time, money, and headaches by considering alternatives.

Powder Over Powder (After Blasting)

If the goal is durability and color change, applying a second powder coat after properly blasting off the first is often the cleanest option. It’s labor-intensive, yes, but the adhesion and longevity are unmatched. Blasting roughens the old coating, removes contaminants, and creates a “tooth” for the new powder. For CNC turning parts, this method maintains tolerances better than liquid paint because the layer is uniform and controlled. Trust me, it’s a favorite on critical telecom housings and outdoor enclosures.

Vinyl Wraps

For temporary or decorative color changes, vinyl wraps are surprisingly effective. They save sanding, priming, and painting time, and they can even be removed or replaced if the client changes branding again. The downside? Vinyl doesn’t handle extreme heat, UV, or rough handling as well as powder or paint. But for indoor panels or short-term displays, it’s a practical workaround that keeps CNC turning parts intact.

Hybrid Coatings

There’s also a growing class of hybrid coatings, a thin powder layer combined with a protective topcoat. These coatings are designed for specialized environments like chemical plants or outdoor signage where extra resistance is needed. At Baoxuan Precision Manufacturing, we occasionally use them for high-spec orders when clients want both corrosion resistance and a specific color.

When Alternatives Make More Sense Than Painting

Here’s the blunt truth: repainting powder coated steel is often more trouble than it’s worth. Labor costs, sanding headaches, adhesion risk, and tolerance issues all add up. If durability and fit are critical, think CNC turning parts in telecom or industrial equipment, consider powder-over-powder or hybrid coatings first. For temporary or aesthetic purposes, vinyl wraps can save time and money. Knowing these alternatives lets engineers and procurement staff make smarter decisions instead of scrambling to fix peeling paint later.

Painting Powder Coated Steel in Different Environments

Not all powder coated surfaces are created equal and neither are the environments they live in. Over my years at Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, I’ve learned the hard way that ignoring the conditions is a recipe for peeling paint and angry clients.

Indoor Environments

Indoor parts are the easiest to repaint. Office panels, lab enclosures, or indoor racks generally face minimal UV, moisture, or chemical exposure. Paint over powder coating can survive years indoors if prep and primer are done properly. Honestly, these are the jobs that make you feel like “painting over powder coating isn’t so bad.”

Outdoor Environments

Outdoors, things get tricky. Sunlight, temperature swings, rain, and humidity all challenge adhesion. Even with sanding and primer, repainting over powder coating outdoors rarely lasts as long as the original finish. I’ve seen recolored telecom housings peel along edges within two years, despite following all our shop-floor procedures. UV resistance and moisture tolerance are critical here epoxy or polyurethane topcoats help, but nothing beats the original powder coat for longevity.

Marine and Chemical Environments

Marine, coastal, or chemical-exposed surfaces are the real troublemakers. Salt spray, harsh chemicals, and constant moisture make any paint-over attempt high-risk. ASTM B117 tests clearly show that powder coated surfaces outperform painted-over ones in these conditions. In the shop, we usually advise against repainting for these applications unless it’s absolutely necessary, and even then, careful testing is mandatory.

Mild Complaint: Specs vs Reality

Here’s a recurring frustration: engineering specs often ignore environmental reality. Procurement or design documents will list “paint-over allowed,” but they rarely include real-life stressors like humidity, UV, or handling abuse. That disconnect leads to failed coatings and expensive rework. If you’re thinking about painting powder coated steel, remember the environment isn’t just a footnote; it’s a dealbreaker in many cases.

Painting over powder coating can work indoors, is risky outdoors, and is almost always a gamble in marine or chemical environments. Knowing this upfront saves a lot of headaches on the shop floor.

Common Mistakes Engineers and Buyers Make

You’d think after ten years at Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, people would get it but nope. Time and again, engineers and buyers fall into the same traps when dealing with powder coated steel and repainting. Here’s a quick rundown of the usual suspects.

Ignoring Tolerance

CNC turning parts aren’t forgiving. Add a layer of paint, and suddenly threads bind, flanges won’t seat, or bearings are too tight. I’ve had engineers insist on repainting small parts “just for color,” and then end up with assembly nightmares. A few microns make all the difference and paint adds thickness you can’t see but definitely feel when you try to assemble.

Assuming Paint Sticks to Anything

Powder coating is slick. Smooth. Hard. Thinking that any paint will stick without proper prep is like assuming Velcro works on glass. Spoiler: it doesn’t. Skipping sanding or adhesion promotion? You’re basically betting that the paint gods will intervene, and in my experience, they won’t.

Forgetting Labor and Cost of Sanding

Sanding powder coats is slow, dusty, and exhausting especially on small CNC turning parts with threads, grooves, or tight corners. Many buyers underestimate this. They see “repaint” and think $50 in materials will cover it. Meanwhile, the sanding team is sweating for hours, and the real cost is triple what anyone expected.

Ordering Touch-Ups Without Color Control

Another classic mistake: ordering touch-ups without specifying exact color codes or matching batch history. You end up with patches that don’t match, which defeats the whole purpose of repainting. Clients often think it’s just “a splash of paint,” but in reality, it’s a precision job especially when dealing with multiple powder coated batches.

The takeaway? Painting over powder coated steel is deceptively simple in theory, and deceptively complicated in practice. Skip the tolerances, prep, labor, or color control, and you’ll pay literally and figuratively for it.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Do I always need to sand powder coated steel before painting?

Yes. Even a light scuff is necessary. Powder coating is slick and hard, and paint will struggle to stick otherwise. Mechanical abrasion sanding, Scotch-Brite, or blasting creates a “tooth” for primer and paint to adhere properly. Skip this, and peeling is almost guaranteed.

2. Can I skip primer if I’m using spray paint?

Short answer: no. Primer, especially epoxy or adhesion-promoting primers, is critical. Spray paint alone won’t bond well to powder coat. Without primer, you’ll see bubbling, flaking, or uneven coverage particularly on outdoor or high-touch surfaces.

3. Will cheap spray cans work on CNC turning parts?

Not really. CNC turning parts have tight tolerances, threads, and bearing surfaces. Cheap spray paint is likely to add uneven thickness, cause binding, and fail adhesion tests. If you must repaint small parts, use high-quality epoxy or polyurethane and account for dimensional changes.

4. What paints stick best to powder coated steel?

Two standouts: epoxy paints for adhesion and durability, and polyurethane paints for UV and chemical resistance. Specialized coatings like fireproof or anti-graffiti topcoats also work if you prepare the surface properly. Avoid acrylics or low-cost sprays; they tend to fail quickly.

5. How can I check if the paint is sticking properly?

Use simple adhesion tests like the cross-hatch test or tape pull test. A properly prepped and primed surface will retain most of the paint when tested. These tests are cheap, quick, and can save you hours of headaches later.

Final Thoughts

So, can you paint powder coated steel? The short answer is yes but only if you respect the process. Sanding, priming, testing, and understanding the environment are not optional steps; they’re what separate a finish that lasts from one that peels in months. Paint over powder coating isn’t magic. It’s careful, precise work, especially when CNC turning parts or high-tolerance components are involved.

At Baoxuan Sheet Metal Processing Factory, we’ve spent years figuring out what works and what doesn’t, from tiny flanges to telecom housings. Our shop floor lessons, adhesion tests, and coating standards are all designed to help engineers and procurement staff avoid costly mistakes.

If you’ve had your own experiences of success or disaster with painting over powder coated steel, share your story or ask a question in the comments. Need professional advice for a tricky batch or critical CNC turning parts? Contact Baoxuan Precision Manufacturing. We’re happy to guide you through prep, paint selection, and testing so your project comes out right the first time.